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Why Is It Important For Content To Be Unique?

Deborah — Sun, 20 May 2012 06:23:22 +0000

I wanted to explain some of our blog posting rules, since to some they may seem petty and unnecessary.

“Blog posts should be original in content (not copied from anywhere else, or published elsewhere)…. It is OK to quote other sites or blogs, as long as there is a link to the original writer. You can check out the quick Fair Use FAQ from the copyright office. “

( blog FAQ )

Although information on the Internet is usually free and pretty easy to come by, it does not mean that this information doesn’t belong to someone, a person, or an organization. By copy-pasting someone else’s article into our blogs or onto our site we are essentially committing plagiarism and violating other people’s copyrights.

In other words, to do so is both against the law and immoral. It’s a bit like stealing - taking something that doesn’t belong to you, and using it, without giving the creator, or owner credit.

In order to avoid both breaking the law and being immoral, you can quote an excerpt from the article you would like to share, and refer your readers by link to the original post, as I have done above, with the quote from our FAQ.
Other than the quote (which is not to be the entire article), add your own original thoughts on the given subject, making sure the quote takes up no more than 30% of your post.

There is another reason for this rule, which is not directly connected to copyright law. For a site to be useful to others, it needs to be found.

In order to be found, it must rank well with Google.

The sites ranking determines how high it appears high in the search results.

Google, dislikes duplicate content, both within a site and throughout the Internet, mainly because when a user places a search query, Google wants to be able to give them the best results possible - and when all the search result from a query repeat themselves, personalGoogle is not serving its users well.

One way Google makes sure its search results are useful to its users, is by penalizing sites whose content is not unique. Google penalizes by removing sites from search results all together, or lowering their rank, and in effect pushing them down in the search result.

The last reason, and maybe the most important one, to avoid copying content is to add a personal touch to the content you publish and share your personal views of the world. Readers might have read already the copied content, but they sure never read the post you are about to write.

So as you can see, copying content is not a good strategy for the long run. If you would like to consult about ideas for writing or about ways to add your own views to content written by someone else, please do not hesitate to contact me.

image courtesy of antony_mayfield

The U.S.S. United States - Revell 1:96 scale plastic kit

seymoregutz — Thu, 01 Dec 2011 02:44:16 +0000

I have had a couple of instances already, where folks have inquired about the instruction sheets for the U.S.S. United States, the Revell 1:96 scale plastic model, kit number H-396. I have listed here the links to all of the sheets……the main instructions and the rigging sheet, split up in three parts. I will warn you ahead of time, that the main instructions are printed in blue ink, making them hard to read.

on some printers and / or computers, it may be possible to change the ink color, for when you go to print them. on some that are vertical, merely rotating the picture will enhance the visibility. the sheets are also listed in the order that they are located on the sheet {as a whole}…….passing your cursor over them will show you the location, taking the guesswork out of it. here they are, and have fun with your build……..post some pictures of your progress……we’d love to see it! :)

just go to this site : HTTP://cuttysarkdrydock.wordpress,com/

…………………………………you’ll see them in the listing on the right

How Rare is this kit

seymoregutz — Tue, 29 Nov 2011 14:14:48 +0000

How Rare is This Kit?

     Model making has been an enjoyable hobby for many years. Model companies that I remember……. …….MPC, AMT, Pyro, Lindberg Line {which made some really cool motorized models in the day}…..too many to count!

A Brief History of Scale Modelling (As I Recall It) by John Loughman

Plastic model - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

   This will give you an Idea about some of the History behind the nostalgia. The true models emerged in the early 1950’s. Planes and cars………then military pieces…….Model trains, being the last to join the list. At the same time, the use of scale came into being…..folks in the earlier days would model from scratch, devoid from any sort of true scale. Model manufacturers quickly flooded the market, in an effort to gain superiority in the market. In the average home today, I would be willing to bet that there are model kits in their attics and cellars…..stored away for that “time in a person’s life”……that unfortunately, sometimes never comes.

   E-bay, Amazon, and other such vehicles of the like, are useful in selling kits that are no longer wanted, or if a person has too many. Collectors…….and hoarders…….folks thinking of the future, have the highest capita of surplus model kits……some are no longer in production. These kits are in demand…..some looking for the nostalgia……some looking to collect, and then there are those who built one in the past and want to experience the build again. Some kits are more abundant……and those that are not, can fall into different categories of rarity. There are sites out there that can evaluate the age of a kit and if it meets their criteria, can see where this particular kit stands, as far as rarity, and has accrued an elevated value.

Old Plastic Model Kits: model airplane kits, Revell, Monogram, Aurora

   Sites such as this, began to spring up on the internet, selling older kits and ones out of production. you must remember though, that just because a model company went out of business, doesn’t make a kit more valuable and rare……..age and availability does. As I mentioned, there are collectors and outlets out there that can evaluate older kit and give a reasonable price. They must meet certain criteria, as I also mentioned.
   The box must be in good shape……clean, with no tears, water stains or blemishes. The kit itself must be intact, preferably untouched by human hands. It is even an extra if the plastic wrap is still on it. The different levels of kit condition includes: pristine - no damage, perfect…….VG =very good- some blemishes on the box, tears, kit is still intact……..G = good - box is not too clean, but the kit is alright……..and so on, down the list till you get to P = poor- box is junk, and some assembly is done to the kit….ie, parts missing {you get the picture}. If a kit or model has been manipulated in any way, shape, or form……I hate to tell you folks…..but the kit is useless! There are some instances, where the kit is indeed rare, but has been build in a museum piece condition {it has to be really good}, then there might be some value to the piece.

Appraisals

Collect Air | Collectibles Info

Old Model Kits: Aurora, Revell, Monogram and other rare and out of production model kits

Here are some sites that can help you find if a kit meets these criteria s. There are many more out there on the internet. Sometimes the instruction sheets are missing…..here is one place where you can find them:

Instruction Sheets

model car kits spotlighthobbies hobbies

   Here is another interesting site that you may enjoy reading.

Lindberg Toy Troubleshooting, Manuals & Repair by FixYa

   I really hate to be the bearer of bad news to all who have kits in different grades of condition. I see so many questions and inquiries about such kits. Not too many people out there have a hermetically sealed room in which to store these precious gems……..it is a joy to a collector’s eyes, when he find such an old kit……in such good condition. Like an ambulance chaser, they look for estate sales, yard sales, and the like, in their search for these rare kits………..even this has turned into a very lucrative hobby!

My ship building story

Pete1 — Sun, 02 Oct 2011 00:02:39 +0000

A friend of mine gave me a box of wood from a model ship that had no parts or instructions. I then decided to take the challenge and created my own handcrafted parts. The only parts in the box was the keel, ribs, lathe, and the planking. I handmade everything above the deck. The sails were handmade out of material which was also in the box. The anchor on both sides were made out of 6 penny nails which I shaped into an anchor. The lifeboat was made by me also. Ratlines were made by stringing it up on the mass and weaving it by hand. I also looked online at other ships to see how they were strung. A long time ago I built a plastic model ship Cutty Sark which also helped me in stringing up the lines. I just wanted to share these pictures with you and hope you enjoy them.

wooden ship - the Nordkap 476 {part 8} paint update

seymoregutz — Fri, 24 Dec 2010 16:25:46 +0000

as I had said in my earlier blog post, I had also painted the hull. I have to fix a few problems, but they are minor and easy to fix. here is a blow by blow of what went down……..

I put the assembled pilot house on it after I painted the top rails to see how it looked……big improvement! now I wanted to do the lower section of the hull. the upper section of the hull did not have too many of the imperfection that i spoke of…..it was when I painted the lower section…..below the water line, where I ran into trouble…….

you can see the lines showing…..some of them disappeared as the paint dried. I brought it upstairs after I gave it another coat of paint so it could dry in warmer temperatures….

as another person pointed out to me…..the water line shouldn’t make that much of a curve, so I have to adjust that….I thought i had that right when I masked it for painting. I have to fix it anyways, so I can fix that as well when i do the imperfection repairs. I also put on the rudder and the prop for this picture and I think my painting the housing blue, instead of white {like it is shown on the box} was a good idea….it has the rails and the decking to separate it from the rest of the ship. so, I end it here, where i stand at the moment with the Nordkap. the bow cap that you see in the picture, is a recreation….the original one broke as I was trying to attach it for this picture….just one of the many pratfalls in model creation! I have gotten the hardware kit, it came in as I was doing the pilot house assembly……I leave you with this picture of it…..thanks for stopping by!

here’s a couple more pictures I thought you might like……

this is the original bow cap with the rear cabin wrap-a-round wall section. as you can see, it broke….the piece that broke off is lying in the other wall cavity. just a continuation of the dry wood problem. Ahoy!

wooden ship - the Nordkap 476 {part7} update

seymoregutz — Fri, 24 Dec 2010 15:45:04 +0000

hello there everyone! yes, it’s been a while since i last reported any progress on the Nordkap. at the moment, it has been tabled, making way for mt wife’s winter house scene for the Christmas holiday. leading up to the day that I had to table him, quite a bit had been done to assemble the upper pilot house {helm}, and the lower section. both of these sections have been cemented together and painted….portholes have been cut out and the frames installed. the helm has been assembled as well and I put in as much detail as I thought would not over-do. the hull is also painted, but there are some slight problems that I have to repair. a big mistake that I did in it’s planking is that I did not cement in between the planks. when i went to paint it, the paint seeped into some areas of the hull, creating some very ugly lines. I’ll start with the housing…..here are some of the high points……

the next set of pictures define and expand on the pilot house. there is still a lot more to be done. after the holidays, I can get back to work on him and continue. notice that there are no railings on the entrance pads leading to the helm. I had to cut them off the side wall sections, because the wood was so stiff, they would not make the bend that they require. I will create a pair for them from stock wood and install them at a later date……when i start up again. the work on the helm continued….

the cabinet you see is the beginning of the detail that went into the helm. I have pictures of the helm from another build that showed maps and books w/bookcase…..and people. I went for a slightly different look due to not wanting to copy the fellow….it’s not my way…..but I do like his approach. here’s what i did….

I am a big Popeye fan……I love the guy!

I haven’t done the clear cello work on the portholes or the windows and frames yet. you can see a hole in the front wall of the helm…..I am going to cement a plaque on the front with the name of the ship on it. I can’t wait to get back to work on it. soon!

how ideas are born

seymoregutz — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 18:10:56 +0000

Odd things happen in the world of the modeler, things see during a build, can spark ideas towards a scratch-build somewhere down the road. Since i started the Cux, I have been switching off my build time with the Nordkap. In this fashion, I can keep the build logs flowing and keep myself busy between drying times. The Nordkap is being built in the dinning room, the Cux, in the computer room….the only draw-back to this is when the Cux requires sanding, it has to be taken out of the room….boss’s orders. Normally, I take them to the cellar anyway, especially for the major sanding. The Cux was on the wooden board in the computer room, drying from the first round of her assembly. I has switched over to the Nordkap, to do the helm room and more assembly to the housing as a whole. I had gotten to a point where it needed to dry, so I would place it on the Cux deck to avoid hitting it and knocking it on the floor. I am also a video game nut and so I jump into a game to fill the time.

At a later point in time, i had gotten out the camera, intent on taking some pictures of the helm build for my next build log, when it caught my eye. the silhouette of the Nordkap housing sitting on the Cux frame was unique….to say the least. I looked at it from one side…..and then to the other……….from above and behind… and then from the bow. the scale was off, but I think that’s what caught my eye the most, the way the rear decking of the housing seemed to fit the shape of the Cux’s stern. I did a slight adjustment to line it up better and snapped a couple pictures of it. I will keep them, waiting for the time when I am able to reproduce the parts to create a hull and deck, a scratch-build of this idea…….a reality of what I saw.

in scale, the relation of the housing on such a short deck, wouldn’t give much room for a working ship, so it probably would have to be a pleasure boat of sorts……maybe a yacht or something along these lines. One thing that is an asset for the modeler….a must-have….is a good imagination.

HMS Victory Build

jonny7england — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 15:59:08 +0000

Like most build posts, we start with the keel, or false keel, followed by the frames from bow to stern, but all that had been put in place before I signed up to buzz.com. So far, I have faired all the frames to the correct angle, checking the frames with a wooden strake regularly to ensure that each plank will lie flat and even along the entire length of the hull. As soon as I was sure that all the frames had been faired to my liking, I went about fitting the lower gun deck ensuring that each section lay flat and even across the central false keel frame. Next came the installation of the middle deck support beams and the middle gun deck itself. Once this had been done, then came the planking, starting with fitting the first hull plank at mid-ships in line with the edge od the lower gun deck and following the curve of the deck and hull, the second plank would be fitted in the same position on the opposite (starboard) side of the model, this is to ensure that no undue stress is applied to the frame and distorts it? With the first layer of planks laid from the bow to the stern gallery, the next layer was fitted, then the next until 12 levels of planking had been applied. Next came the marking out and cutting the first 16 of 94 gun ports, a slow and laborious task but well worth the effort, with the lower gun deck ports cut out on both port and starboard sides, the 30 middle gun deck ports had to be measured out and cut. This brings me to my present point in this build, now I have a further seven or eight levels of planking to apply to my model.

A Newbie to this site:

jonny7england — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 09:44:07 +0000

Hi there, like my title says, I am a newbie to this site, but not a newbie to modelling. I started modelling way back in the sixties with Airfix and other brand plastic models. I have built certain models, cars, aircraft, ships several times over, as new and more improved models appeared on the market, if it was plastic kit, then chances are that I built it. I then stopped modelling for a number of years until the late nineties when I decided to tackle the bigger models, but this time in wood as it was a more pleasurable medium to work with. My first wooden model HMAV Bounty followed RMS Titanic, Cutty Sark, all took three years plus to build, and now, I am into HMS Victory which I estimate will be completed around mid 2013. As I find my way around this site, I shall endeavour to post some pictures.

wooden ship - The Nordkap 476 {part 6}

seymoregutz — Thu, 07 Oct 2010 16:12:22 +0000

after the lower pilot house section was complete, I began to do some of the structures for the deck. I had just finished cementing the front wall on this structure and had removed it, so the cement could dry. I had made a pair of waterways for the deck….none were supplied in the kit. these two parts had to be made in order to lay border for the deck planking. I had painted the bulwarks {walls of the deck} and i had to notch the waterways so they would fit along the deck.

after they were fitted, they were painted and installed. these had to be in place in order for me to measure and cut out the water drains that run along the sides of the hull. the would also gauge where the rub rails were to be on the hull.

I also installed the floor for the lower housing section.

noting that there were still gaps around the bulwark ribs, I used my needle nozzle, fitted onto my tube of filler and removed them. before I did that though, I cut out the water drains along the hull. this was rather painful….not to the build, but to me. I had to be careful not to mess it up and ruin the ship.

yes, i also installed the cargo holds. when it is time to plank the deck, the caps are also removable, so they will not be in the way.

then it was time to do rail work…..rub rails and cap rails. in this picture, you can see the starboard rub rail is already in place. more followed in procession.

the stern section of the rub rail had to be soaked in water before it was bent into the shape you see here. the cap rails were installed after this was dry. the next thing to do was to install the lower plates that will attach the lower cabin housing skin that is to be wrapped around the stern. I added a couple of support pillars to keep them level.

while all this was going on, I had joined the two helm deck parts together and set it aside to dry. it was almost time to wrap this session up…..I surveyed all that i had done. I was quite happy with myself. I have to sand areas of the cap rails to even them up, but so far, everything looked real good. this kit….this build, has been a lot of fun so far, even though it is over 20 years old. I have gotten word that the hardware kit is coming….once i get it….there will be more paint. if I keep up this pace, there will be a lot of catching up to do.

here is just one more picture…..even though it is out of sequence, it’s still nice to look at.